Argentario: Tuscany’s Hidden Gem

Scritto da andrea denaro

In southern Tuscany, where rolling hills meet the sea, lies an ancient and mysterious promontory: Monte Argentario. Connected to the mainland by two slender sandy strips and sheltered by evergreen vegetation, it’s a place suspended between land and water.

For many, Argentario is a destination to be discovered slowly; for others, it’s best experienced from the sea, where every cove tells a story, every cliff holds a promise, and every dive reconnects you with the Mediterranean’s original essence.



A Promontory That Feels Like an Island

Not long ago, Argentario was indeed an island. Today, the two tombolos connecting it to the mainland—Feniglia and Giannella—create a unique landscape: the Orbetello Lagoon, a protected and fragile ecosystem, and a rocky promontory that plunges into the Tyrrhenian Sea like a world unto itself.

While some of its most famous beaches can be reached by land, it’s from the sea that Argentario reveals its most intimate side: rugged coastlines, hidden bays, uninhabited islets, Spanish watchtowers, and a surprising silence.

Sailing along Argentario’s coast offers a wealth of choices. Each inlet has its own name and personality, each cove a distinct color, each seabed a story to tell.





Must-Visit Coves

  • Cala del Gesso: A small bay with white pebbles nestled among rocks, often considered one of Tuscany’s most beautiful beaches. The water’s hues range from emerald green to cobalt blue.

  • Cala Piccola: A quiet, shaded refuge, perfect for a swim among rocks and small fish. On clear days, you can see all the way to Giglio Island.

  • Le Formiche di Grosseto: A handful of rocks in the sea, little known and rarely crowded. Ideal for those seeking the sensation of floating far from everything.

  • Isola Rossa: Uninhabited and glowing red at sunset, it’s one of the most fascinating spots in the lesser-known Tuscan archipelago. Its seabeds are perfect for snorkeling.





Seaside Villages and Stories of the Wind

Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano are the two faces of Argentario. The former, more discreet, retains the soul of a fishing village, with narrow alleys, Spanish forts, and moored sailboats. The latter, more lively, faces the open sea and is the ideal starting point for sailing enthusiasts.

Both ports have maintained a slow and authentic rhythm, far from mass tourism routes. In the small bars overlooking the water, you can still hear the dialects of old sea wolves. Here, more than elsewhere, time seems to slow down.






10 Things to Do in Argentario (and Surroundings)






  1. Sail Along the Rugged Coastline: Admire coves and coastal towers from a unique perspective, with the wind in your hair and the scent of Mediterranean scrub all around.

  2. Snorkel Among the Rocks of Cala del Gesso: A small underwater paradise, perfect for swimming in clear waters and observing marine life in tranquility.

  3. Stroll Through the Ancient Village of Porto Ercole: A small maze of alleys, squares, and historic views that retains the charm of a Medicean port.

  4. Savor Fresh Fish in a Dockside Trattoria: Red prawns, Atlantic bonito, stuffed squid—the cuisine of Monte Argentario is simple, genuine, and deeply connected to the sea.

  5. Explore the Spanish Forts: Forte Stella, Forte Filippo, and La Rocca are testaments to the 16th-century Spanish domination, offering 360° views over the Tyrrhenian Sea.

  6. Enjoy Sunset Aperitifs on a Boat: Evening lights reflecting on the calm sea, a glass of local white wine, and time that seems suspended.

  7. Visit Giglio Island: A small world of cliffs, golden sandy beaches, and a medieval village perched high—a must-see excursion.

  8. Spot Dolphins Between Giannutri and Argentario: With a bit of luck (especially in spring/summer), it’s not uncommon to encounter small groups of cetaceans between the islands and the promontory.

  9. Walk in the Feniglia Nature Reserve: A flat trail between pine forest and sea, ideal for birdwatching or a leisurely bike ride scented with maritime pine.

  10. Swim at Dawn in Cala Grande: As the sun rises behind the hills and the sea remains still, Cala Grande offers moments of silence and pure beauty.






Giglio Island: Miniature Beauty

Just a few kilometers of sailing from the promontory, Giglio Island welcomes visitors with its simple and wild charm. It has three main faces: Giglio Porto, colorful and lively with its seaside houses; Giglio Castello, the island’s medieval heart with ancient walls and panoramic views; and Giglio Campese, a sandy bay perfect for a relaxing day.

The sea here is particularly clear, ideal for diving and snorkeling. The granite seabeds attract diving enthusiasts from all over Europe. The island is also perfect for hiking, with panoramic trails crossing holm oak woods, vineyards, and prickly pear cacti, offering glimpses of the deep blue Tuscan Archipelago.

Giannutri: Absolute Silence

Further south of Giglio, Giannutri is a different, more secret island. Uninhabited, protected, almost mystical—a place out of time where nature is the true protagonist.

No roads, no cars, no beach umbrellas—just a single trail crossing the island , from Cala Maestra to the ruins of Villa Domizia, an ancient Roman residence overlooking the sea. Giannutri is part of the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, which is why it preserves a rare and delicate marine and terrestrial ecosystem.

For those sailing nearby, a stop in Giannutri is more than just an excursion—it’s a ritual. A way to slow down, listen, breathe. And to remember that the Mediterranean still knows how to be silent.

Dining in Argentario

Seafood Restaurants

La Selva – Capalbio

A renowned seafood restaurant offering fresh fish dishes in an elegant setting with a charming outdoor space.

Vivo – Capalbio

Located near Monte Argentario, Vivo serves ultra-fresh seafood from its own fishing fleet, with a strong focus on quality and short supply chains.

L’Oste Dispensa – Giannella, Orbetello

Specialized in seafood cuisine, with a menu that changes daily based on the local catch, highlighting lagoon fish and humble, traditional flavors.

La Bussola – Porto Santo Stefano

An institution in Argentario, offering classic seafood dishes made with daily fresh fish and premium ingredients.

I Pescatori – Orbetello

Run by the local fishermen’s cooperative, this restaurant serves authentic regional recipes prepared with the day’s catch in a simple, genuine setting.

Meat Restaurants

Il Frantoio – Capalbio

Housed in an old olive mill, this venue blends an art gallery, bookstore, bar, and restaurant, serving local cuisine with a modern twist in a refined atmosphere with outdoor seating.

Il Fontanile dei Caprai – Capalbio

A countryside trattoria offering simple, traditional Maremman dishes, especially meat-based favorites like wild boar pappardelle and grilled meats served on hot stone.

Vallerana – Capalbio

A rustic hideaway for meat lovers, with a wide selection of grilled dishes in a cozy setting reflecting the Tuscan countryside charm.

Da Guido – Magliano in Toscana

Located in a medieval village, this restaurant is known for its hearty land-based dishes such as wild boar pasta and oven-roasted pork, served in a warm, traditional setting.

La Cantina di Simone – Scansano

A historic venue where you can enjoy local cured meats and cheeses paired with regional wines like Morellino di Scansano, in a welcoming and authentic atmosphere.

Useful Links

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